Treasures of California

My Favorite Places to Photograph

in the Golden State

By Andrew Hudson

Originally published in Shutterbug's Outdoor and Nature Photography magazine, Winter 1998.

Copyright © 1998-2007 Andrew Hudson for PhotoSecrets / Photo Tour Books, Inc.

It's fitting that California was originally a mythical land of treasure. In 1510, a Spanish adventure novel, Las Sergas de Espandian, described "an island called California" that was rich with gold, gems and pearls. When a Spanish ship sailed west from Mexico in 1534, the crew discovered a new land, with pearls on its southern beach. Hoping it was the mythical island of treasure, the Spanish named it Baja (southern) California.

Unfortunately for the Spanish, California was neither an island nor overflowing with gold. But perhaps the myth is partly true. Today's California is rich in treasure of another variety - visual sights - and it generously rewards today's explorer - the outdoor photographer. Here are some of my favorite natural, and man-made, treasures of California.

National Parks

Containing deserts and coastline, and the highest and lowest points in the contiguous U.S., California offers photographers the most impressive and varied range of national parks. Here are my favorites:

Yosemite National Park
The crown jewel of California, and indeed the nation's national park system, is of course Yosemite National Park. Yosemite Valley is a photographer's paradise, with verdant meadows, a dozen waterfalls, and sheer, half-mile-high granite walls that face the setting sun. It's synonomous with the most famous scenic photographer, Ansel Adams, who said: "I knew my destiny when I first visited Yosemite.'
The classic view of Yosemite Valley is from Tunnel View (also known as Discovery View and Inspiration Point). You'll recognize it as Adams' famous "Clearing Winter Storm, 1944". Looking up the valley you can see El Capitan, Half Dome, Bridalveil Fall and Cathedral Rocks, all conveniently facing west towards the setting sun.
Late afternoon is best. Use a 35mm or 50mm lens for the full view, then a 100 to 200mm lens to concentrate on individual features such as El Capitan. The last sun rays of the day strike Half Dome and Cloud's Rest, for which you'll need a 300mm lens and tripod.
Yosemite Falls

This signature waterfall plunges 2,425 feet in three sections, making it the highest waterfall in North America. Facing south-east, Yosemite Falls is best photographed in the morning. My favorite view is from Cooks Meadow, by Sentinel Bridge, using a 100mm lens. Other good views are from the walking path which takes you right to the base of the Falls. April is the best month, at the peak of the spring run-off; by late summer the Falls often reduce to a trickle.
Vernal Fall

This is my favorite waterfall as it's photogenic and romantic. The best view is from the trail cutoff, between the Mist Trail and the John Muir Trail. Here, just above the crest, you gain its full power and magnificence. With a larger watershed, Vernal Fall stays active throughout the summer. Facing west, Vernal Fall is best in the afternoon. When the sun is behind you, vibrant waterfalls appear.

Kings Canyon and Sequioa National Parks

These adjoing parks are south of, and in the same mountain range (Sierra Nevada) as, Yosemite. Giant sequoia trees - earth's largest living thing on land - tower above you and pristine lakes reflect snow-capped mountains. There are twenty peaks over 12,000 feet including Mount Whitney, at 14,494 feet. Mostly accessible only to hikers and backpackers, the parks are an oasis of tranquility.

The most impressive collection of giant sequioas can be found at Giant Forest, in the southest corner of Sequioa National Park. Nearby is the large Crystal Cave with chambers of creamy white stalagmites. In Kings Canyon park, the John Muir Trail winds past such views as Rae Lakes with Painted Lady in the background, and Evolution Lake with Mount Darwin in the background.

Other California Parks Some of the other great photo ops in California parks include the following:

Alien landscapes. Death Valley National Park; Lassen Volcanic National Park; Lava Beds National Monument; Joshua Tree National Park.
Coast redwood trees: Redwood National Park and four nearby redwoods state parks; Muir Woods National Monument; Big Basin Redwoods State Park.
Waterfalls. Besides Yosemite, McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park and Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

San Francisco

For a travel photographer, there's no better subject than an icon. The Golden Gate Bridge is the most recognized structure west of the Mississippi and it immediately identifies San Francisco. The tall towers, elegant proportions and vibrant color ("International Orange") create a beautiful sight. The land on both sides, having been owned by the military, is largely undeveloped and provides a dozen view points from all around - north, south, east and west. My favorite is from the north-west.

Marin Headlands
This is the classic view, the photo you've always wanted to take. Here, on the northwest side, the bridge graced by the San Francisco skyline behind. It's a stunning sight and best in the afternoon.
By car, cross the bridge to the north side and take the second exit (after Vista Point) onto Alexander Avenue. Turn left under the freeway toward 101 South and, just before the road joins the freeway, take the only right turn, onto the plain-looking Conzelman Road.
There are actually three different viewpoints here. The first is Battery Spencer, a pullout on the left. A hundred-yard walk brings you to a breathtaking view. You're so close that a wide-angle 24mm lens is required.
About 3/4 of a mile further up Conzelman Road is a small pull-out with a tree and bench, overlooking Kirby Cove. This is where you can get a tight shot of the North Tower with the Transamerica Pyramid behind. Use a 300mm to 600mm lens, and a firm tripod. A 2x convertor would also be useful.
At the top of Conzelman Road, just by the tunnel, is a fabulous panoramic view of the entire span. Use a 50mm or 35mm lens with a polarizer if there's a blue sky. A clear day is required, which is more likely in the winter.

Bodie Ghost Town

Moving east from San Francisco, you'll find the best-preserved and most authentic ghost town in the country. Bodie State Historic Park is so remote than no-one, other than park rangers, lives here, or anywhere nearby. With its lack of color and wealth of textures, Bodie is a treasure for anyone who enjoys black and white photography.

About 170 mostly dark wooden buildings (only 5 percent of the original town) stand in a barren area of high-desert, uncommercialized and preserved in a state of "arrested decay" since the 1880s. Schoolbooks and desks lie in the one-room schoolhouse, grocery tins line a store's shelves, and original tools sit in the Mine Union building. You can enter a few buildings but most are only accessible with a special pass or on a private photography workshop. Call 760-647-6445 for a list of workshops.

Early morning is best, when the long shadows enhance texture and before the day gets too hot. Use a polarizer and, for color shots, a slight warming filter such as an 81A.

Bodie is east of Yosemite on Highway 270, a 13-mile, partly dirt track road off Highway 395. It's 7 miles south of Bridgeport and 18 miles north of Lee Vining. Summer is fiercely hot and the park often closes during winter snowstorms.

San Diego Zoo

Yes it's a little obvious but the San Diego Zoo is a great place to take photos. The major exhibits have two great features - landscaped surroundings and no bars. With only a moat or glass between you and the animals, you can get close-up, natural-looking photos. A 200-300mm lens is best here. As with people, crop tightly into the face for a powerful shot. The animals are often moving so an autofocus camera is useful. A tripod is more trouble than it's worth, instead use a wall or handrail for support.

The star attractions are Bai Yun and Shi Shi, the only pair of giant pandas in the U.S. Generally shy, the pandas are most active in the morning, particularly at feeding time. Other good subjects are Indo-Chinese tigers, North Chinese leopards, Sumatran orangutans, pygmy chimps, lowland gorillas, Barringo giraffes, Galapagos tortoises, hippos, polar bears, and the unofficial symbol of San Diego, the Queensland koalas. Look out for Onya-Birri, a rare albino baby koala.

Thirty miles further north is the Zoo's second campus, the San Diego Wild Animal Park. At this more expansive facility, the roles are reversed - people are enclosed while the animals roam free in entire herd and flocks. My favorite feature here is the Photo Caravan. A safari truck takes you not around the enclosures but through them. You can photograph reticulated giraffes and great Indian rhinos as they come right up to the truck and eat from your hand. You can also photograph northern and southern white rhinoceros, Hartman's mountain zebra, white-bearded gnu, Kenya impala, Cape and water buffalo, Persian goitered gazelle, Roosevelt's gazelle, and sable antelope. You'll need to switch quickly between a 24-35mm lens for the giraffes that come to the truck, and a 200-300mm lens for the other animals that roam the 2,200-acre savannah.

San Diego Photo Ops

The 1999 NANPA Summit will be held in San Diego, California. In his new book, PhotoSecrets San Diego, Andrew Hudson recommends these top four nature photography opportunities:

Balboa Park. This 1,200-acre city park contains a variety of gardens, wilderness areas and hiking trails. Florida Canyon Native Plant Reserve makes for a pleasant hike. The Botanical Building contains over 300 species of tropical and subtropical plants. I like the Desert (cacti) Garden and Rose Garden, by the Space Museum.

Cabrillo National Monument. This 400-foot high peninsular is one of the best places on land in Southern California to watch migrating whales. Park rangers provide information at the Whale Overlook. There are also tide pools, a nature trail, two lighthouses, and great views of San Diego Bay. Best in the morning.

Torrey Pines State Reserve. The only publicly-accessible reserve for one of the world's rarest trees - the Torrey pine (Pinus torreyana). There are many trails through the 1,750-acre Reserve. My favorite is Broken Hill Trail which leads you to the rugged coastal view of Broken Hill (best at sunrise, although the park opens at 8am). North of La Jolla.

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. About one-third of San Diego County is preserved as public wilderness areas. An 80-mile drive east of San Diego brings you to Anza-Borrego, the largest state park in the contiguous United States. The Park contains more than 600 species of plants, 500 miles of dirt track, and 12 wilderness areas. You can photograph palm groves, cacti, eroded landscapes and sweeping views. From late February through March (depending on the rains), the desert can explode with color from the blooms of wildflowers.

Resource List

For more information on California and its photo locations, contact:

California:

California Division of Tourism Tel: 800-862-2543

California State Parks Tel: 916-653-6995

National Parks:

U.S. National Parks Tel: 202-208-4747

Yosemite National Park: Tel: 209-372-0200

Sequioa and Kings Canyon national parks Tel: 209-565-3708

Book about Yosemite

San Francisco:

San Francisco Visitor Information Tel: 415-391-2000

Golden Gate Bridge Tel: 415-921-2331

Book about San Francisco

Bodie Ghost Town:

Bodie State Historic Park Tel: 760-647-6445

San Diego:

San Diego Zoo Tel: 619-234-3153 (Photo Caravan: 619-738-5022)

Balboa Park: 619-239-0512; Botanical Building: 619-692-4916. Cabrillo National Monument 619-557-5450.

Torrey Pines State Reserve 619-755-2063.

Anza-Borrego Park: 760-767-5311; Wildflower hotline: 760-767-4684.

Book about San Diego

About the Author

Andrew Hudson is a San Diego-based photographer and author. His first book, PhotoSecrets San Francisco and Northern California, won the 1998 Benjamin Franklin Award for Best First Book. His latest book is PhotoSecrets San Diego. Check out his web site at http://www.photosecrets.com.

What's In The Bag (1998)

Andrew uses a Minolta X-700 camera, mainly on Aperture Priority (AE) mode, with three Minolta lenses - 24-35mm f3.5, a 50mm f1.7, and a 100-300mm f5.6. Favorite lengths are 28mm and 300mm. Accessories include a Tiffen polarizer filter for blue skies, a Bogen/Manfroto 3228W tripod, and a Lowepro Mini Trekker bag. His film choice is Fujichrome Velvia (ISO 50) for its rich, vibrant colors.

Copyright 1998-2007 Andrew Hudson for PhotoSecrets / Photo Tour Books, Inc. You may reproduce this article for personal, educational, non-commercial and non-Internet use, such as in a local photo club newsletter or school project. No Internet publishing is permitted. For commercial use, please email me for permission. This article was originally written for Shutterbug's Outdoor and Nature Photography magazine, fall 1998.

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